Statuette of Berlusconi from the Neapolitan nativity scene giving the middle finger

The Contrasts of Naples: a visual journey between street and underground

Naples. In spite of everything, it makes you love it. The good food, the warmth of its people, the climate and the beauty of the places win over even the most sceptical. A city of a thousand facets, like the mosaics of its metro. From the heights of the elegant Vomero or the restless Vesuvius you descend to the calm blue sea, then venture into the historic centre, where we find blue again — but this time the blue of the football team: present everywhere, from windows to tablecloths, from cardboard cut-outs to murals. Napoli is everywhere, in Naples. Blue is Naples. And yet Naples has a thousand colours. It is a lively, noisy city: many colours, many sounds, many scents, many flavours, many gestures and grimaces. Whoever visits Naples rediscovers the five senses, immerses themselves and cannot help but feel life. The people are alive, and with life have arisen traditions kept alive just as the past is. They are proud of them. And rightly so.

Even underground there are treasures. An unimaginable Naples: the historic value of the war shelters, still visible today, and the modernity of the metro, now recognised as one of the most beautiful in Europe. Naples is beautiful, from head to Vesuvius, above ground and below. This whole reportage was made with Olympus’s 25 mm f/1.2, equivalent to a 50 mm: I deliberately limited myself to a single, non-wide-angle lens, to capture images different from the usual Neapolitan postcards. I hope I succeeded. To find out more about my photographic approach you can read the about section. Enjoy your visit of Naples.

Inscription 'Noi Vivi' carved on the wall of a shelter in underground Naples

Underground Naples: Noi vivi, a war shelter

Naples has a long history, including one of war. Underground Naples is not so different from the tunnels of the Gaza Strip: today a source of tourism, yesterday a source of salvation.

It has been many things: as well as a war shelter, also an illegal dump, a judicial warehouse, a water-collection well, an escape route for kings… There is not a single underground Naples, but many different stories that tell what Naples is.

Abandoned car in underground Naples with a sign reading 'cars must be left unlocked with the keys inside'
Close-up of a rusty Vespa in underground Naples
Dump in underground Naples with a piece of a statue and a vintage bicycle
Old dusty and rusty motorbike in underground Naples
Underground aqueduct in underground Naples
Beautiful mural of Sofia Loren in Naples

The VIPs of Naples: Totò, San Gennaro and Sofia Loren

Naples is also its personalities, who have given so much to culture and to the image of Italy in the world. In the streets you find plenty of art celebrating them, like Sofia Loren in a mural that exalts her Mediterranean beauty. There are faces that have made the city’s history and brand-new ones, like the league-winning footballers: and if you can’t have them in person, at least as cardboard cut-outs.

Large mural of Totò in Naples
Giant mural of San Gennaro in Naples
Mural of Totò with a hat, in black and white
Mural of a number-10 footballer holding a woman in his hand
Cardboard cut-outs of the Napoli football players
Black-and-white photo of the port of Naples with a large ship in the background and a fisherman in the foreground

Naples and its port

Naples has one of the largest ports in Europe: a gateway of Europe onto the Mediterranean.

View of the port of Naples and a large ship through a ship's mast
View of the port of Naples at dawn with Vesuvius in the background
Tourists seated at the tables of a sea-view bar, indifferent to Vesuvius

‘O Vesuvio

The tourists seem indifferent before Vesuvius. But those same unwitting tourists do not know they are sitting on the ashes of the volcano and of the Campi Flegrei. An indissoluble bond between the city and its volcanoes.

View of Vesuvius from one of the hills of Naples
Neapolitan illegal building work with Vesuvius in the background
Statuette of Berlusconi from the Neapolitan nativity scene giving the middle finger

Neapolitan nativity scenes: between tradition and current affairs

A workshop for building nativity scenes and the inevitable Berlusconi: although from Brianza, he loved Neapolitan music and could not be missing from the traditional nativity scene.

Neapolitan nativity-scene workshop, with a Napoli number-10 shirt and a photo of a female saint in the background
Contrast between a well-kept old church and a present-day decaying house in Naples

The contrasts of the alleys: between art and decay

Naples is dotted with exceptional artistic wonders, often right next to poorly maintained buildings. It is part of the contrast that makes the city unique.

Naples Cathedral in black and white
A shaft of light illuminating an angel inside Naples Cathedral
Silhouette of a monument in Naples
A square in Naples at sunset
Section of an apartment block with washing hung out in an original way

The districts of Naples: from the Quartieri Spagnoli to the Rione Sanità

Washing hung out in the most unthinkable places is a great classic of the city: the result of Neapolitan population density and the art of getting by, of carving out space even where there is none.

A Naples street strewn with Napoli football flags and banners
Murals and Napoli flags on Neapolitan houses
A district of Naples near the station
Section of a house in the Quartieri Spagnoli