Via Francigena in Lazio: from Montefiascone to Trevignano Romano

When you think of the Via Francigena, your mind runs to Tuscany. And yet the Lazio stretch is perhaps the most authentic: less frequented, far from the tourist circuits, able to surprise even the most experienced walkers. This photographic trek covers 4 stages from Montefiascone to Trevignano Romano, on Lake Bracciano, for about 79 km in total, among medieval villages, endless hazel groves, Etruscan towns and landscapes that in spring explode with colour. We met very few Italian pilgrims — almost all of them foreigners — a sign of how little known this part of the Francigena in Lazio still is. If you love travel reportage off the beaten track, take a look too at our journey through the Camargue and our reportage on Naples. Let’s set off together, stage by stage.

Stage 1 · Montefiascone – Viterbo (18 km)

Poppy fields and the medieval centre

Starting point: Montefiascone station (Zepponami district), where it is best to leave the car. First, though, it is worth climbing up to the historic centre: Montefiascone is built on a volcanic hill and offers a spectacular view over Lake Bolsena. On the little square stands the church of Sant’Andrea in Campo, an Orthodox church of the Romanian community: if you are lucky, you may witness an authentic rite.

The trail proper begins after a short stretch on the Via Cassia. From here the route is mostly flat or gently downhill: low difficulty, suitable even for those with no trekking experience. In spring the fields fill with poppies and wildflowers, a perfect setting for anyone carrying a camera. We met two Irish pilgrims, father and son, with whom we shared anecdotes and wine over dinner: that is the magic of these paths — meeting people we would never have approached elsewhere.

The last stretch enters the outskirts of Viterbo on asphalt. The medieval historic centre is remarkable and deserves at least half a day; we slept at the Residence Nazareth, in a central location. For the official GPS track and up-to-date logistical information, the reference is the official Vie Francigene website.

Stage 2 · Viterbo – Vetralla, via San Martino al Cimino (22 km)

Woods, elevation gain and the 13th-century Cistercian abbey

From Viterbo there are two variants to reach Vetralla. We chose the classic route, longer but far more interesting, which passes through San Martino al Cimino. It is the most demanding stage: the elevation gain is significant, especially considering the overall distance. The first stretch runs along a quiet asphalt road on the edge of the Viterbo outskirts, then you enter a dense wood that accompanies you up to the top of the climb.

San Martino al Cimino is worth the detour on its own: a small village at 560 metres, with a 13th-century Cistercian abbey disproportionately large for the village, fascinating precisely for that contrast. From the belvedere a panorama opens over the plain, which in the morning is wrapped in mist. After the village the trail descends gently through the wood to the little hamlet of Tre Croci.

From here you can choose: turn right following the classic Francigena, or carry straight on along the Forocassio, asphalted and lightly trafficked, saving about 2 km. Vetralla is the most rustic arrival of the itinerary: the historic centre has a shabby air, with crumbling houses that nonetheless have a decadent charm of their own.

Stage 3 · Vetralla – Sutri, passing through Capranica (24 km)

Hazel groves, Etruscan villages and the rock-cut tombs of Sutri

The longest stage is also the one that delivers the greatest surprises. With the climb behind us, the route stretches out over the plain among immense hazelnut plantations: kilometres of orderly hazel groves that in places recall the Langhe. A photogenic and unexpected setting, perfect for original images, far from the clichés of the pilgrimage.

Before Sutri the Francigena crosses Capranica, a way-station often ignored by the guidebooks but well worth a stop: the historic centre is perched on a small hill, with well-kept alleys and a rare quiet. Here we met a Portuguese lady, settled in the village for years, who showed us her garden carved out of a common space between the buildings. On the way out you enjoy the view of Capranica from above; then the trail skirts a stream among little wooden bridges: after rain the ground is muddy and slippery, poles are advisable.

Sutri is the most thrilling arrival. An Etruscan town built on the tuff, it preserves rock-cut tombs dug into the rock and a Roman amphitheatre in excellent condition, one of the few in Italy still legible in its entirety. History oozes from the walls: we slept in an apartment carved into the living stone, aptly named “Radici etrusche” (Etruscan Roots). Sutri would deserve at least a whole day; the journey, however, must go on.

Stage 4 · Sutri – Trevignano Romano, on Lake Bracciano (15 km)

From the Etruscan town to the lakefront: the most scenic arrival

The last stage is not part of the official Via Francigena, but it is the most sensible logistical choice for those who — like us — do not have enough days to reach Rome. Trevignano Romano is reached in about 15 km; from there a bus takes you to Bracciano in a few minutes, and Bracciano has a station from which it is easy to return to Viterbo to collect the car.

The route nevertheless starts alongside the Francigena: you pass next to the Roman amphitheatre of Sutri, with a small detour to the Etruscan tombs, then the trail separates from the original road and continues among hazel groves on a gentle climb. You cross farms and riding stables as far as the woodland cycle path, which skirts Monte Rocca Romana and leads to the upper road of Trevignano.

The arrival is scenic: Lake Bracciano appears suddenly from above, with Trevignano nestled on its shore. You can go down to the lakefront or add a couple of kilometres up to the Rocca Orsini, with a breathtaking view over the lake and the mountains. The lakefront is lively and full of bars; we chose to stop on the grass, watch the water and dip our feet back in. The journey ends here, until the next adventure.